Keeping a sweet heap - THE GARDEN COMPOST HEAP Sue Lord Conditions required for healthy, odour free composting:- MOISTURE - Do not allow to dry out, or get waterlogged, this is unlikely, but water in a dry summer.AIR - Anaerobic bacteria produce slime, do not press down, just place material on loosely on top of the heap.ACTIVATOR- You do not need to buy activators. Lime, bonfire ash, other part matured compost, garden soilwill do the job just as well, in fact with a good range of material, no activator is necessary at all.NUTRIENTS- Kitchen waste to feed worms, and a good range of vegetable matter is enough, you may add other composts as and when they are available e.g. Horse, Chicken & Cow manure, mushroom & hop waste. Types: They can be made of any material just to keep the heap from taking up too much space. Wood, chicken wire, plastic bins. Don't bother with doors in the base, or ones that 'turn' Build on earth base not on hard standing. An ordinary compost heap does not need turning The Main Composting Activity in a garden heap is by BACTERIA, FUNGI AND WORMS (not high heat as is so often suggested). If you follow my advice on what not to put in you will have no trouble. Start the heap in late autumn, using the top (incompletely composted material from the previous years heap. If you only have one heap, you will need to get the mature compost out before starting the new one. If you have a second one you can start it as suggested, then get the rest out in your own good time. Before the winter is ideas as it can then just be put on the surface of the soils under and around plants. The worms will incorporate it over the winter. What to Compost:- Any Vegetable/ fruit debris, all kitchen waste (but not meat, fish etc. which would attract vermin). Soft garden waste, small prunings, shredded prunings. Lawn mowings, but not after using weed killer. Any weed foliage, but not seed-heads or perennial weed roots. General garden debris but not heavily pest infested or diseased material. Build up gradually over the year & layer large quantities with other material. all weed foliage, but no roots of perennial weeds or seeds. To Cover or Not to Cover? No I think it should NOT be covered - Keeping a lid on encourages flies, birds will keep the top clean. It is likely to keep the heap dry, and makes it more difficult to use. Use the lid, upturned as a bird bath (but not if you have toddlers) Leafmould: Compost separately if you have a lot. Either in bags or bins. Make sure they are moist when you put them in & keep moist (don't let dry out in summer) Can be used after 6 months, but best after 12 months, sieve for special composts. If you can mow leaves up or otherwise chop them up with late grass cuttings (no seed) the result makes an excellent mulch directly on the soil under and around plants and shrubs in the Autumn. General Principles: Don't put in large quantities of anything all at once.Don't use anything that will attract vermin. Use the Compost! It does no good until it is on the soil. It is best distributed each year in the autumn, it does not need to be dug and it can be put directly on top of weeds. it will kill them by cutting out the light! Spread round shrubs & plants, on beds etc. Worms will incorporate over winter. Siting considerations. Doesn't have to be an eyesore, it can be put between shrubs at the back of the border, or screened with plants or trellis. It should be reasonably accessible & easy to use.